“TENDERLOIN”,“RATS”,“TIMEWORN CLOTHING”
東京のファッションカルチャーの中でも、ひと際異彩を放つブランドたち。時代に翻弄されることなく、確固たる彼らならではの価値観を築き上げてきた。それぞれ全く違う強烈な個性を持ちながらも、どこか同様の骨太な空気感を漂わせるのは何故だろう？
そのルーツには、1969年に東京生まれ育った３人の男たちの姿があった。
西浦徹、眞野勝忠、邊見馨
若かりし頃時代を共に駆け抜けて来た同じ歳の３人が、20数年の時を経た今も各々が一線で活躍しているという現実には、何か特別な物語性を感じずにはいられない。単に洋服作り、モーターサイクルカルチャー、アメリカンカーなどの共通項で括る事は簡単だが、そこにはそんな表面的な繋がりでは無く時間と共にじっくりと熟成されてきた“何か”が見え隠れする。彼らだけが分かち合える特別な世界観。アディクトたちが後を絶たないのは、そんな神秘性や醸し出す雰囲気に惹かれているからなのかも知れない。もしかしたら彼らが作り出す洋服は、ただ着るというより”生き様を纏う”という感覚に近いのかも知れない。
第一章となる今回は眞野勝忠のインタビューを元に、３人の出会いから現在までの軌跡を“光”と“影”を交えながら綴っていく。
思いがけない原宿での出会い
「背が高くてN3-Bかなんか着て、ゴローズのバッグ持って調子コイてるヤツがいてさ。コイツ気に入らねえな。いつかぶっ飛ばしてやりてぇ……と思っていたのが邊見だった（笑）。先輩同士が知り合いだったんだけど、お互い挨拶もせず牽制し合っている感じのままその時は別れたんだ。」
当時17歳だった眞野は、原宿のウェンティーズを溜まり場とする“ギャンブラーズ”というチームに所属していた。リーゼントにボタンダウンシャツ、チノーズにサドルシューズという生粋のフィフティーズのファッションに身を包み、先輩や仲間と原宿の街を我が者顔で闊歩していたという。いわゆる“顔役”になるのが、この時代のとっぽい若者にとってのステイタス。自分を着飾り大きく見せようイキがったり、時には喧嘩しながら自分の居場所を作ろうと懸命で、眞野もご多分に漏れずその渦中にいた。当時はフィフティーズだけではなく、パンクもロックもタケノコ族もあらゆるスタイルの仲間が原宿で吹き溜まり、路上でのライブやパーティに明け暮れていた。皆、手を付けられないような不良たちだったが、先輩のライブとあらばウッドベースや機材を運んだ。近所の弁当屋が余ったからあげを袋いっぱいくれたり、帰れなくなったらショップの倉庫で寝かせてもらったり……。そこには昔ながらの暖かみや助け合いなど、血の通った人間関係があった。当時のそんな人間関係や人の温もりは、やがて裏原宿の伝説のバー「HIDE&SEEK」を作り上げる眞野の人間力の礎となっていると言って良いだろう。
そんな頃に出会ったのが邊見だった。出会ったと言っても会話をすることもなく『ぶっ飛ばしてやろう』というという気持ちだけが涌き上っていたようだが……。ただそれほどまでに感情が迸ったということは、邊見に対してある種の特別な興味を抱いたとも解釈できる。その時の眞野は気付く由も無かったが、その後の2人の数奇な運命を考えると重要なキッカケの一つだったことは間違いない。
TENDERLOIN, RATS, TIMEWORN CLOTHING
TENDERLOIN, RATS, and TIMEWORN CLOTHING. Respected by all, they are claimed to be the most distinctive brands in the Tokyo street fashion scene. Never swayed by the times or the trends, they have continuously flagged their original styles through various creations and impacted the culture in great lengths. But little is still known about the creators behind the labels due to their controlled limited media appearances and their common stance in keeping affiliations tight. Let me first make it crystal clear that these men are radically unique individuals. They are not at all a type one would get to know on a sight seeing tour to Tokyo. But interestingly enough, the three men that represent these brands own a similar atmosphere in their existences. Let us take you back a few decades to unfold the common history of the these three men: Tetsu Nishiura from TENDERLOIN, Katsutada Mano from RATS and Kei Hemmi from TIMEWORN CLOTHING. This is a official memoir of three stand up men, ’69 Tokyo born & bred.
Nishi, Mano, & Hemmi
It is already an intriguing story to know that the three men who play such significant roles in the Tokyo street culture were boys that ran together on the streets of Shibuya & Harajuku twenty years back. One might be quick to conclude the common grounds they share are already quite visible in their designs from American vintage cars to their love of motorcycle culture. True, but what they have in common is greater and deeper. Their similarity is of the outlook of the world and values they share. It is something that synergised over two decades, a level of bond that time can only mature.
The smell of this genuine brotherhood is what the fans and addicts keep on coming back for more. They know that what these three men create is not just any clothing, and that each piece of creation represent a bold attitude and philosophy toward life. They understand that wearing their apparel is taking in a lifestyle and becoming part of something bigger than themselves.
The first episode of this Tokyo street chronicle will be from the eyes of Mano (RATS). It’s the story of how the three first met and hustled to survive their early days…
The Encounter in Harajuku
“One day I was hanging out with my crew in Harajuku and ran into this tall guy rocking a N3-B and a Goro’s bag hanging from his shoulder. He was with his crew and our elders seemed to know each other. Oh, I remember taking a first look at him and just not liking him at all. To tell you the truth it was more like I wanted to knock his lights out (laughs). That day we ended up eyeballing each other and didn’t even exchange a word. That was my first encounter with Hemmi.”
Young Mano 17 years old, then belonged to a street team called the Gamblers. The Gamblers were boys that geared up in the signature 50’s look: chinos, button down shirts, saddle shoes and a combed back regent hair style that hung out at the now gone Harajuku Wendy’s. Back then for the cool kids, being part of a recognised crew and getting yourself a rep was the thing to do. Everyday young delinquents from various styles of teams, from the Takenokos to the Punks, gathered around there to kill their boredom partying out and playing music. Of course it wasn’t an exception for Mano, so stunting and getting into fights was a daily routine as he spent his days putting in effort to make a place for himself.
Harajuku in the ‘80s was a city where the rebels got to breathe their freedom. They were mischievous and almost impossible to handle, but luckily for them the community had heart to lend them a hand in one way or the other. Clothing stores would let them crash in warehouses and kind delis would give them left over menus to fill their stomachs. Simple things like that was enough for broke kids who just wanted to hang out and have fun. It was still a time with old school love and care for each other. For Mano this benevolence left a strong impression in him as it remains a crucial influence on his character to this day. He recalls the foundation of the legendary bar HIDE&SEEK he opens a decade later, were built on the principles he absorbed through these times.
共に時を重ねた渋谷時代
「16歳やそこらで刺青入れて、ビシッとオシャレしてファッション誌なんかで活躍する奴らが出てきて。コイツらマジかよ？ って。これは俺も渋谷に出張らないと思った。」
1980年代後半。それまで原宿を中心として作り上げられてきた若者のカルチャーの中心地が渋谷に移った。いわゆる“アメカジブーム”の到来である。ゴローズにリーバイス501、レッドウイング、バンソンやショットのレザージャケットなどを着こなし、ファッション誌を飾るチーマーたちがファッションカルチャーの主役となった。ヘルズエンジェルスなどに影響されたバイカーが現れたのもこの頃だ。友人に連れられて渋谷を訪れた眞野は衝撃を受けたという。そんな時代の渋谷で、眞野は邊見と偶然の再会を果たす。
「18歳の頃かな。渋谷で再び邊見と出会った。久しぶりに会ったらあいつ超洒落っ気づいてやがってさ。オレンジ色のマウンテンパーカに白いブルックスの白いシャツ、ゴローズのベルトにウエスタンブーツ履いてスカーフまで巻いて、『渋谷は長いぜ』みたいなツラしてさ。ムカついたんだけど、「コイツ格好いいな」と思っちゃって。ぶっ飛ばしてやるって思っていたのに、お前についていくよって（笑）。それから一緒にツルむようになった。」
同じ歳、ファッションや車や女や音楽が大好きで不良……。過去の出会いの記憶が蘇り、まるでジグソーパズルの最後のピースがハマるかのように、すべての条件が重なった。再会は必然だったのかも知れない。それから毎日のようにツルむようになり、共に思春期の多感な時期を駆け抜けた。お互いが尊敬し合う訳でも無く、かと言って貶し合う訳でも無い。夢を共有するとかでもなく、楽しいことも悪いことも危ないことも、ただただ一緒にいた。そこには損得も駆け引きもなく、ただ“友”である、それだけだった。そんな純度の高い関係性が、今日へと続く物語のベースとなっている。
再び始まった東京での生活
「たまに話を聞いたりするんだけど、邊見やTAKESHI（HIDE&SEEK）たちが西浦の軍団とセッションするようになっていて。『こんな面白い奴らがいるんだよ』なんて言ってきてさ。俺としては『なんだ、そんな奴ら知らねえぞ』ってなるじゃん。面白くない訳だよ。」
邊見と渋谷でツルんで楽しくやっていた眞野だが、ある事件をキッカケに東京から離れることになる。鉄工所で働きながら、いつ巡ってくるかもわからない再起に向けて悶々と過ごす日々。ひたすらこなす単調な労働作業。完全なる“影”の世界……。原宿、渋谷を渡り歩き享楽に耽っていた日々では絶対に感じられないような苦汁を味わった。しかしながら直向きにコツコツと何かをやり続け、真面目に一生懸命生きる。後にドン底からRATSを立ち上げた際には、この頃の経験がものを言ったのかもしれない。“影”を見たからこそ見える景色、感じることのできる痛み、決して無駄な時間では無かったと言えよう。
その後、23歳で再び東京に戻ってきた眞野は、駒沢通りにある小さなバーで働き始める。邊見ともまたツルみ始めるのだが、以前と違ったのは西浦の存在だった。眞野の留守の間に、邊見は西浦との友好を深めていた。当然眞野は面白くない。
「西浦ってどんなヤツなんだよ……。」
だが、二人が距離を縮めるにはさほど時間は掛からなかった。後輩のTAKESHI氏が、眞野のバーに西浦を連れてくるようになる。その佇まいを見た瞬間に感じ入るものがあったという眞野。
「同じ感覚を持つもの同士だから、言葉は必要なかった」と振り返る。
ごくごく自然な流れでリンクするようになった3人。その後は、互いに何でも言い合える仲間と呼べる関係を作って行った。
The Shibuya Era
“I started noticing a new generation of teenagers showing up in magazines. They were flossed out and even had tattoos at that young age. I was shocked but quite inspired. I realised then, Shibuya was the place to be and I definitely had to be part of it.”
By the end of the ‘80s, the centre of Tokyo street culture had moved its capital from Harajuku to Shibuya. A new style of trend called ‘Amekaji’ (the Tokyo interpretation of the American & American Indian inspired style) had emerged and it spread rapidly, transforming Shibuya into a city occupied by the youth.
The new look was all about rocking Goro’s silver, Levi’s 501, Redwing boots, and leather jackets by Vanson or Schott. Around the same time, Hells Angels inspired bikers began to surface too. Fresh heads from a new type of crew called the Teamerz started showing face in fashion magazines branding them into icons and trend setters of this new phenomenon. This was the dawn of the new American style fashion. A brand new era had begun and coincidentally Mano and Hemmi meet each other for the second time in this new epicentre of street culture.
“I think I was 18 when I saw Hemmi next. He was wearing an orange mountain parka with a white Brooks brothers shirt, a Goro’s belt, western boots and even a scarf around his neck showing off his attitude like Shibuya was his place. Of course it pissed me off but you know what, he was just so damn stylish. I just had to admit that he looked damn cool. Yeah, I still wanted to smack him but his look was so impressive I made a sudden change of mind and decided to follow him! (laughs). That’s how we started rolling together.”
It didn’t take any time for two bad boys with the same love for fashion, cars, and women to bond as good friends. They began hanging out day after day to experience all the good and the bad the new city had ready for them. But it wasn’t like they had a special respect for each other or shared a common dream or anything of the sort. Their friendship was pure and simple. They just had each other for anything that came up. And this simple bond marks the beginning of their story that leads to the foundation of where they’re at now.
The Return to Tokyo
“I was hearing from Hemmi and Takeshi (HIDE&SEEK) about their new link with Nishi’s crew. They told me they were cool and had some interesting shit going on. But for me, I was like fuck that. I don’t know them. The whole conversation irritated me.”
At that time, Mano was in a serious situation due to a trouble triggered incident and had abandoned Tokyo. With no idea of when he could get back, it was like his life had suddenly changed from light to dark. The daily routine of hanging out on the streets with friends became putting in sweat at an ironworks factory alone, repetitiously handling the same monotonous work from morning till night. The fun days in Shibuya haunted him but he carried on each day determined to make a come back one day. So until then, he knew he had to keep on looking up. With time, he learned to fight the pain that kept trying to eat him from inside and also time earned him a great treasure. A perspective that makes a man tough. A perspective from the bottom up.
Mano had turned 23 when he made his long awaited return to Tokyo. Hemmi welcomes him back and everything seemed like it was like before, except for the existence of Nishi he only had heard of. Nishi and Hemmi had become close friends while Mano was away and he didn’t like anything about it. It was like the time he was away had cursed him. His reluctance to have an unknown stranger close to the crew he longed to be back with, surfaced strongly but luckily this awkward situation didn’t take too long to resolve. One day, Takeshi stops by the bar Mano works at and brings Nishi along with him. Here, they see each other for the first time.
“I guess two men with common spirits don’t even need a word.”
Mano had a good look at Nishi once and knew he was a man worthy of trust. From that day on, Nishi joins Hemmi to become the other key member to roll with Mano. They got along well, and their friendship deepened. In no time, there was nothing they hid from each other.
